The bus dropped me off on a small boarder town on the boarder
with Belize. I waited in the station for an hour or so and got a small school
bus to Belize city. The bus ride was crazy because it was really chaotic.
There were young school girls and boys getting on and off the bus at haphazard
intervals, and everybody seemed to know each other. The bus was insanely crowded
too, with people crawling all over each other to get on and off.
The Belizean countryside was pretty simple. There were trees
around but we weren't in a jungle, although it probably was a jungle before
it became inhabited with all of the villages that lined the cross country
highway which was just a dirt road.
When we got to Belize city I hooked up with an Irish girl, and
English girl, and another girl whose name I can't remember and I can't remember
where she was from. Right next to the bus station there was a group of Belizean
Mennonites. Those are some strange people because they seemed so out of place
because they are lilly white blond haired people in the middle of black people.
They were all there working loading up all of their furniture in trucks. The
furniture looked nice and I heard they were renowned for their furniture making
skills and that all they do is make furniture. The men had long beards and
the women were dressed in old dutch dresses and they had their children with
them.
We all got a dorm room in a nearby hotel, and went out for something
to eat. Belize city at night made me feel like I was in Armageddon because
old raggedy drunken old men with missing teeth showed up all over the place.
One of them even yelled something at us like ''What are you looking at!? Get
out of here I'll kill you", but we walked a little faster and he just
stood there and yelled at us. There were no lights in the streets either and
there were no shops of any kind open.
We were lucky enough to see some action though as a huge carnival-like
parade popped up out of nowhere that we latched onto and danced through the
city with all of the excited dancing Belizeans.
The next day got a small motor boat to Kaye Caulker 45 minutes
away. Kaye Caulker is the smaller of the two major tourist islands off of
the coast of Belize. The boat ride was cool because the water was light blue and we zipped
in and around marshes and islands of all sizes. When we got to the island
we stayed in a hotel on main street. I got a room with a guy from LA. Kay
Caulker was cool because there were no cars, it was just a couple square blocks
of dirt road, but had houses on it just like a normal neighborhood. It only
had one main street that was lined with hotels and restaurants. There were
some retired Americans there who had little sandwich shops and stuff who were
just hanging out all day enjoying the most relaxed life you could imagine.
The local people said it was illegal to run there and some guys even yelled
at me for running at one point.
Our first day there we went on a boat tour to swim with the
sharks that suck the mollusks out of their shells. These sharks were really
tame because they were fed every day by the tour operators that take tourists
there everyday, so we could grab their tails and pick them up out of the water.
There were also stingrays swimming past and even bumping into us. We were
about a half mile from the island where the barrier reef broke the waves from
the sea, and we were snorkeling out there against the waves as the water went
out again before the waves crashed again.
That night we went to Karaoke for my first time ever and I sang
the Irene Cara song ''Fame'', but I don't think that was the right choice
for me. I signed up to sing ''Pass the douchi from the left hand side'' but
I went outside to get stoned with Sarah and when I came back someone else
had already sung it.
The next day the guy who I was staying with suddenly got really
horny and wanted to go chick prowling with me on the island, and he was flirting
with all of the women on the island who the black women who worked there seemed
to feel natural with.
The Belizeans there were super cool. They were really outgoing
and talked really natural like you were their buddy. They were basically just
like Rasta people from Jamaica. A lot of them had dreadlocks and they talked
the same. I invited one guy who worked there to kayak to San Pedro with me
which was about ten miles to the north. He would have been a good kayak partner
because he got fourth place in the last years around the race with the tricycles
they have there instead of cars. But he his boss signed him up for a last
minute shift and he couldn't go.
But I got a kid from Seattle to go with me. It was a full moon
so we left at sun down. The light of the moon was bright enough to clearly
see all the formations on the sea bottom which was only about ten feet down
the whole perfectly smooth way to Kaye San Pedro which took us about four
hours to get to. When we got to the tip of San Pedro we just put our boat
upside down on the beach between two closed down restaurants and hid our paddles
and life jackets under it. We walked down the main street into the downtown
area and got a meal in one of the central restaurants. San Pedro was clearly
much more developed than Kaye Kaulker. Kaye Kaulker was just bamboo and cardboard
houses, but San Pedro was full on apartment buildings, stone multi level hotels
and Cars. It was a totally different scene and strengthened how cool and much
more relaxing Kaye Kaulker was. After our meal we went back to the boat and
paddled back. It was darker now and we could see a few different islands in
the distance and decided correctly that Kaye Kaulker was the one with the
light house shinning. I was cool to kayak through the perfectly still water
in the middle of the night, but it was kind of erie not knowing what was below
us. At one point he had to change because he was getting cold or something
but he was afraid to get in the water. So he had to do some acrobatics in
order to change without getting wet. When we arrived at the northern tip of
the island we got out of the boat and did some midnight snorkeling with the
snorkeling gear that I rented. There was a lot of phosphorescent grass on the
sea bottom that when you touch it it lights up.
The next night I went to one of the local discos that was a
little more out of the way from the main tourist strip. I was astonished to
see that the whole disco was filled with black couples who were all doing the doggy-style dance
where they dance as if they are having sex doggy style standing up. And that
was basically the only dance they did, just the doggy style in various different
ways. I felt kind of self conscious there because I was the only single person
in the place. But later more tourists came and I felt more comfortable. But
at one point I tried to do a break dance style move where you get down on
your back and spin around and I accidentally kicked one tourist girls legs
and made her fall right on her ass. I tried to apologize but she and her group
here all freaked out like I did it on purpose or something. But one girl who
wasn't in their group was totally cracking up. I'm glad I didn't knock any
of the black people on their asses though because I heard two weeks beforehand
one of them was shot to death right outside of the disco, and my buddy Glen
got his tooth chipped in half from a local kid who elbowed him in the face
in a soccer game there.
One day there we did some snorkeling on the beach on the north
end of the island. The girl I was hanging out with were hanging out with
some of the black locals on the island and because I had just recently left
the states and had been listening to Art Bell radio a lot I was talking a
lot about Aliens. They seemed interested but one guy got kind of emotional
telling me it was all hogwash.
After about six days there I took the boat back to Belize city
and got a bus to Guatemala. While I was sitting in the bus station I saw a
bunch of Mennonites there waiting for a bus. I was tempted to talk to
them but they seemed so weird because they weren't talking to anybody, seemed
to be speaking another language, and looked in bread to me. I heard they are
originally from Holland and went to Canada, but left about a hundred years
ago because they didn't want to be attached to any kind of social system and
could be more unattached and anonymous in Belize.
On the bus ride to Guatemala I noticed that most of Belize was
jungle. The country was really undeveloped. The road that went to Guatemala
was just a two lane dirt road that crossed a couple of small villages. I wasn't
even on a proper bus, it doubled as the school bus for the local children
and the bus for the locals to take small trips in. So it was always stopping
to let people on and off it. For a little bit I was sitting next to a Belizean
girl who lived in one of the small villages there and was a dentist. She said
the best way to learn Spanish was to kiss a Spanish speaking girl to know
how the tongue works.
I got of in the first town in Guatemala so I could do the Tikal
tour the next day.
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